What to do in Grazalema

What to do and see in and around Grazalema

(Now includes “8 walks from Grazalema” and “Grazalema Village Trail”)

32 pages of useful ideas of what to do and see, to help you get the most out of your visit. Includes suggested routes for day trips from Grazalema to the surrounding villages.  Information on some of the most popular walking routes, entry permits and access, historical and cultural information and village trail, a village plan and much more.

A free copy of this is available for guest.

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This guide is arranged in 3 parts. Part 1 is general information on Grazalema and the surrounding area, followed by suggested day trips by car. Part 2 is for visitors wishing to access the immediate (entry permit free) mountain area without the need of car or taxi.  The walks vary from 5 kms circular routes to 12 kms lineal routes. All begin at the fountain in La Plaza de España.  Easy, medium and difficult classifications are relative to the other paths.  If you never walk, you may find all routes difficult. Regular walkers might find most walks fairly easy.  Many of the paths listed in this booklet do not exist on the maps available and some paths are less walked therefore you must heed the guide and look for the yellow arrows on a black square. The best time to walk is March-May and Sept-Nov. In summer it is best to start before 8am. On fine days in winter it can be warm in the middle of the day. Walkers who remain quiet will be rewarded with close encounters with deer, ibex and reptiles.  Vultures and eagles can be seen on any fine day all year round.  Sensible clothing and water is needed at all times.  Paths are marked with yellow arrows only where it would otherwise be difficult to follow, where the path is clear you will find no arrows. Ignore all other markers. You may find gates that are not mentioned in this guide, only the most substantial are mentioned as gates have a habit of being temporary here, so don't panic! Please help to maintain the paths, make stone markers where needed and thus help other visitors keep to the same path reducing the environmental impact of your visit. Part 3 is a brief history and a village tour highlighting the most interesting part of the village.

Things to do and see in Grazalema village:

·         Visit the blanket factory where Grazalema blankets and ponchos are made from what is reputed to be the best quality wool in Spain.  There is also a museum with some of the first looms to be imported into Grazalema.  Open: 08:00-14:00 & 15:00-18:30 Mon-Thurs, 08:00-14:00 Fri.  Closed Sat/Sun & Hols.

·         Take a walk up to the redundant hermitage of El Calvario, set on the side of the hill above Grazalema in peaceful surroundings and visit the near-by Saint with fine views over the village.

·         Los Peñascos viewpoint, near the school, affords a good view over the rooftops of the village and El Tajo viewpoint affords some impressive views beyond the village.

·         Marvel at the Roman fountain, which has been a source of drinking water for the local populace for nearly 2,000 years.

·         Picture in your mind wash day at the public laundry and count yourself lucky that you have a washing machine.  Imagine how noisy it must have been when filled with chatting washerwomen.  Put your hands in the water, could you imagine washing here?

·         Relax by the waterfalls (when there is water) and contemplate the houses above the cliff.

·         Walk along the medieval road (which linked down to an earlier Roman road) and the cliff base where there are flowers all year round, including orchids, dwarf iris and daffodils and blue rock thrush. 

·         Stroll through the streets to discover wall paintings and ancient columns and the local architecture tinted with Arab influences.

·         Visit the church La Encarnación, the beautiful San José and the hermitage of Los Angeles.

·         Don’t forget to keep an eye open overhead, griffon vultures are a very common sight as they glide effortlessly from one mountain range to the other.  Golden and Bonelli’s eagles, sparrowhawks and peregrines are also seen frequently.

·         “Grazalema Village Trail”, now included as Part 3 of this booklet, will give you a self-guided tour of the best of the village with a potted history.  It takes 2 hours for the tour.

·         The Romeria is in May.  It is a Gypsy style festival and horse or donkey-drawn carts (as well as small open back lorries) are adorned with palms and flowers.  The procession is from Grazalema to the Ribera Valley where a fête is held.

·         June is culture month and in the Casa de Cultura you will find poetry readings, singing and theatre.  It sometimes has an international flavour, such as jazz from Cuba and tragedies from Macedonia in Greek! Just about everything is free.

·         Other music, theatre and readings occur from time to time throughout the year.  Publicity often only appears on the day, or at best a few days before, see the posters on the Town Hall. November and December usually have several events to enjoy.

·         Fiesta de Carmen, though she is not the Patron Saint of Grazalema, is important.  Held on the 16^th of July, or the following weekend if the 16^th is not a weekend.  For four days there is 24 hour eating, drinking, dancing and talking and culminates on the Monday with Spain’s oldest bull-run in the streets.  Bulls are released at 08:00, 12:00 and 19:00.  The best views are to be had by putting on you trainers and running, or in the morning for spectators as during the day the village fills with people from elsewhere in the sierra. 

·         The summer fair of ‘Los Mayores’ is the third weekend of August.  There are fair ‘queens’, which resembles the May queens of Britain (when virgins of marrying age are shown off to would-be admirers, all very pagan for Christian countries).  An all night funfair is sited in the main car park and a lot drinking and very little sleeping occurs.  In the Plaza de España there is flamenco.  On the last day one-year old cows are let loose in the streets, so you will need those running shoes again!

·         The summer open-air disco during the school holidays is located at El Tajo and normally begins around midnight until five in the morning, sometimes later.  Entry is free and it is normally standing room only for late arrivals. Friday, Saturday, Sunday nights, plus festival days.  It’s a place where locals of all ages meet with people from the sounding villages as well as with tourists from all over the world.  Make the effort to say hello to someone and you won’t leave without having made a friend.  Not many people dance, so you won’t feel that you have to ‘shake your stuff’.

·         Semana Santa (Easter) sees two processions.  The Sunday before Good Friday there is a procession of believers from La Aurora church in La Plaza de España to La Encarnación carrying olive branches and palms.  On Good Friday there is a procession of icons from La Encarnación around the village.

·         Corpus Christi sees a street procession around the village starting at La Encarnación church.  The streets are strewn with palm fronds and sedges.

·         The Three Kings on January the 6^th sees the Three Wise Men from the East passing through the streets throwing sweets and the occasional small toy to the masses of children and adults following behind, or waiting in their doorways.  It is a strange sight for those who have never seen it.  You would be forgiven for thinking that you were in a Third World country where nobody had ever seen a sweet before, however it has a great atmosphere that may sweep you along and have you diving for sweets whether you want to or not!

·         The Bandoleros 3 day re-enactment occurs in October.

·         Free live concerts at various times of the year at El Tajo. Read posters outside bars.

Things to do and see around Grazalema:

·         Take a walk into the beautiful Ribera Valley along the Roman Road.  Follow the Ronda road to the junction for Algodonales and you will encounter a car width track on the left as you head up the hill (about 150m from the junction).  It crosses the modern road a few times until you come to a fountain under a weeping willow tree (3kms each way).  A good place for a picnic.

·         Take a walk to Puerto del Boyer (4 kms each way) along the river valley.  Go to the top of the village and follow the main road to the right for some 200m.  At the road bridge cross over and the walk begins at the wooden bridge.  Very easy walk, except for 50 metres or so where it is steep.  The surface of this path is on the whole good enough for pushchairs.

·         Pinsapar Walk.  The path crosses the north face of the Sierra del Pinar through the Spanish fir forest (Abies pinsapo).  YOU MUST HAVE A PERMIT TO ENTER, available from the information office in Grazalema. The permit is free, but there is a small charge for the phone call and fax. From July until the end of September you have to go as part of a group and pay.  The route is controlled and fines levied on people without a permit.  The fir trees are found in 3 natural parks in Andalusia and are a remnant of the forest which existed before the last ice age.  Bear in mind that you will walk on the north face and the temperature is always cooler than elsewhere.  Permits are limited and from March to October you may have to request them a few days in advance, especially weekends and holidays.  The start of the path is 4kms from Grazalema on the Zahara road.  For those of you who don’t know an Abies from a Pinus or a Taxus don’t be too disappointed if you don’t get a permit, the whole park is special and incredibly beautiful. Examples of the trees can be seen in the village.

·         Garganta Verde.  Truly a gem of nature. YOU MUST HAVE A PERMIT TO ENTER. (see Pinsapar Walk for restrictions).  Not recommended if you are easily frightened of heights as you descend to the bottom of this very narrow gorge, (full height 1000m) under the watchful eyes of griffon vultures basking in the sun or feeding their chicks (this is said to be the largest European colony) until you reach the river.  After heavy rain be prepared to return from this point, or be prepared to get wet.  The route from here is downstream.  You have to shimmy over some boulders until you reach La Ermita, which is an open-sided cave where there is a beautiful collection of stalagmites and stalactites of various colours.  DO NOT CONTINUE PAST THIS POINT. You need ropes to continue!  The return route is back the way that you came.  The path begins approximately 13kms from Grazalema on the Zahara road, so a taxi or own transport is needed.  It’s worth asking in Hostal Casa de las Piedras if there are other people looking to share a taxi.

·         El Torreón. YOU MUST HAVE A PERMIT TO ENTER. (see Pinsapar Walk for restrictions). The highest peak in the Park and the Province, 1654m. On a clear day you can see the coast of Morocco and the Sierra Nevada.  This mountain range is the cause of Grazalema being the wettest village in Spain, receiving an average of 2.3 metres of rain each year. The driest year on record received 0.9m and the wettest 4.1m! Mid May until mid September is usually without rain.  The climb starts approximately 8kms from Grazalema on the El Bosque road.

·         Immediately to the south of Grazalema there are many walks that are every bit as beautiful as the more famous (and often more crowded) parts.  Circular and lineal walks are offered in “8 Walks from Grazalema” which is now included as Part 2 of this guide. There is no need to use a car. The shortest walk is 5kms and the longest approximately 24kms. On some walks it is highly likely that you will find yourself close to flocks of wild ibex, or not far below a soaring vulture or Bonelli’s eagle.

·         Salto del Cabrero walk between Grazalema and Benaocaz is one of the easier walks in the mountains and passes by the famous ‘Salto de Cabrero’ or goatherd’s leap.  Legend has it that a jilted lover, a goatherd, jumped to his death from this geological curiosity.  It is best seen from a distance, particularly when walking from Grazalema.  The walk is suitable for most and many non-walkers complete this route without difficulty.  Faster walkers take 3 hours, most are more leisurely, stopping for picnics and to enjoy the views taking up to 6 hours.  At weekends this walk can be very popular so leave the village before 9:00 if you want to avoid the crowds.

·         Roman road.  Walking from Benaocaz downhill to Ubrique is much easier than the reverse as you descend some 540m in less than 4kms.  Marvel at Roman technology of 1800 years ago.  Take the trouble to get off the road to see the work that went into building the little bridges and conduits.  A bus returns from Ubrique at 15:30 daily for Benaocaz, for those who have left cars and bicycles there, and continues on to Grazalema.  You need to allow at least 1¼ hours to walk this comfortably.  When arriving in Ubrique turn right along the road, then left into Avda Manuel de Falla.  The bus station is down the hill on the right.  If in doubt ask for ‘La estación de autobuses’.

·         The Benamahoma river walk to El Bosque is an easy stroll of some 6 kms each way.  The river flows all year round and is fed from the underground water system that emerges in Benamahoma crystal-clear and cool.  Monday to Friday a bus leaves El Bosque at 15:15 for Benamahoma (15:30) and continues to Grazalema.  For those without transport it is best added onto the Pinsapar walk, or hitch hike or take a taxi to Benamahoma to start.  There is a bus from Grazalema to Benamahoma and El Bosque weekdays, leaving at 05:30!  On Fridays an additional service leaves El Bosque at 19:45 for Benamahoma and Grazalema.

·         Take a train from Ronda down the spectacular Guadiaro valley on the Algeciras line.  The line winds and squeezes its way along the narrow gorge, criss-crossing the river and popping into and out of tunnels.  Get off at Cortes and walk to the town (or take a taxi as it’s 5kms uphill) or walk along the river path upstream to Jimena where you can rejoin the train.  You might want to go a little farther down the line to Castellar.  The village itself is 10kms away, but the walk is through the beautiful Parque Natural de los Alconacales; which is the largest remnant of Mediterranean woodland anywhere in the Mediterranean, is through an area of outstanding natural beauty.  Alternatively continue to Algeciras, (which most guidebooks unkindly say is ugly and has nothing of interest) and enjoy a bustling market place, which resembles far more North Africa than Europe in the Plaza de Nuestra Señora Palma.  Pedestrian shopping is also surprisingly good in a town of this size.  In the small but quiet park of María Cristina are the remains of the Al-Andalus Royal Baths, part of the old city defences and the great view of the Rock of Gibraltar from the beach.

·         Take a day trip to Africa without leaving Spain.  Take a morning ferry from Algeciras to Ceuta (40 mins).  [From the train station walk straight ahead, at the end of the road cross the main road and the port entrance is nearby. It’s a 10 minute walk.]  In Ceuta visit the Museum of the Royal Walls, the Municipal Museum, Plaza Africa and the Cathedral.  The town is an odd mix of Muslim and Christian.

·         Payoyo cheese factory at Villaluenga, 13kms south of Grazalema.  Locals say that this is the ‘real’ Grazalema cheese and not the cheese that is made in Grazalema.  You may visit the cheese factory shop and sample the cheeses and also buy direct.  There are many varieties, including fresh, semi-cured and cured.

·         Day trips to other villages.  See Tours 1 & 2.

·         Day trip to Ronda.  See Tour 3.

·         Day trip to Arcos.  See Tour 4.

·         Paragliding, bungy jumping, climbing and other activities are available from Horizon.

·         Horse riding.  Half day, whole day, or whole week routes are available in Arroyomolinos.

·         Cueva de la Pileta in Benaojan (952 167343).  An atmospheric cave without electric lighting.  Make your way into the past and view paintings between 4,000 and 27,000 years old – said to be the oldest in Europe.  The tour takes 1½ hours.  Entry at 10:00, 13:00, 16:00 and 18:00 daily.  You need your own transport, or ask in Hostal Casa de las Piedras about a shared taxi as there are often other people wanting to visit and looking to split the cost of transport.

The four tours that follow on pages 16 – 23 are designed to give a highlight of the surrounding area as day trips.  Each of the locations included have much to offer the visitor with time to enjoy them at leisure.  Anyone wanting more in depth information should contact the local tourist information office in each place and may wish to visit fewer of the locations to experience each area to its full.  Please note that only Ronda is practical as a day trip by public transport.  The last bus from Ronda is at 18:15 daily.

  

                  

Tour 1:      

Grazalema – Villaluenga – Benaocaz – Ocuri – Ubrique – Grazalema.  Approx.  60kms.

Leave Grazalema in the direction of Ronda on the A372 until the junction at Puerto de los Alamillos 5kms from the village.  Now take the A374 to Ubrique.  As you enter Villaluenga you will see many domed buildings.  These are Arabic wells, some quite large and all in a good state of repair.

Villaluenga del Rosario.  This is the highest village in the province at 870m above sea level (some 40m higher than Grazalema).  This valley has been inhabited for many thousands of years and prehistoric remains have been found in many locations, especially in the numerous caves around.  In many of the caves there are paintings dating back to 20,000 BC.

In common with the other villages around a large percentage of the populace emigrated to The Netherlands, Germany, The Basque Country and Catalunia in search of work in the 1950s when Spain suffered from many years of high unemployment and starvation under Franco.  Villaluenga has a fraction of its former population as a result.

In the village the church of Salvador is C16^th and is the oldest building that is intact, also of interest is the bullring, which was begun in the C18th.  It is peculiar because it is polygonal, not circular.

On the main road opposite the village is the cheese factory.  Locals say that this is the ‘real’ Grazalema cheese and not the cheese made in Grazalema.  You may visit the cheese factory shop, sample the cheeses and also buy direct.  The cheese is available in fresh, semi-cured and cured forms.  You can select from goat, sheep or goat and sheep’s milk mixed.  There are cheeses with herbs and without.

From the village continue in the same direction, towards Ubrique.  You will approach a narrow pass ‘Manga de Villaluenga’.  From this point it is 2kms to Ubrique in a straight line, but by road it is 8kms.  At this point you will also see the Roman road as the modern road crosses it.  As you turn the corner into the next valley this ancient road is in excellent state of repair. You will now enter Benaocaz.

Benaocaz was a Roman settlement just a short distance off the main route that ran from Acinipo (see Tour 3) towards the coast.  (See also ‘Roman Road´ in the section Things to do and see around Grazalema.)  It was not an important place, serving only as a centre for the farming community in the mountains.  Ocuri, only a few kilometres away was the major town and gateway to the whole area. 

During the 700 years of Al-Andalus, Benaocaz thrived and a visit must include a walk up to the top of the village where part of the original Berber settlement is to be found, complete with narrow street and buildings either side, some showing defensive features.

The village is very quiet compared to Grazalema, but its narrow web of streets are delightful and the locals are very friendly.  Of the buildings built after the Spanish conquest the church of San Pedro is the most notable and is from the C16^th.  The museum has a selection of prehistoric, Roman and Al-Andalus objects.

Ocuri.  Continue in the direction of Ubrique for just over 5 kms and you will find Ocuri, which was the Roman town on this side of the sierra.  The town was very small and not very important, however it was at the heart of a network of routes between the mountains and the coast.  Here you will find the remains of municipal buildings and private villas, roads, paths, drains, sewers and water systems as well as tombs.  [Open: 10:00 – 19:00 daily.  Tel: 956 464900.]

The road continues for 3 kilometres winding its way down the hill to Ubrique.

Ubrique.  A visit to Ubrique is far more pleasant in winter than in summer, because it is 570 metres lower than Grazalema.  In winter you can leave Grazalema at 8°C and arrive into Ubrique in springtime at 18°C.  In summer you can add on more than 10°C to the temperature in Grazalema.

On first arriving at Ubrique you can be forgiven for thinking ‘how ugly’, but it was once a pretty little village and that still survives on the hillside.

[For those who arrive on foot via the Roman Road, turn left on arrival at the tarmac road and you will enter the old quarter.  Those arriving by car (park near the bus station), or bicycle, continue up the hill at the other end of the road from the roundabout, then turn right.]

The church of San Juan de Letrán is the most notable of the larger buildings and dates from the C17^th, but the charm of old Ubrique is its narrow and steep streets and the clusters of irregular houses.

Ubrique is the area’s major centre of cork production and leather crafts.  This is obvious from the number of shops in this little town of 18,000, however, this trade is now is under heavy competition from cheaper imports from the Far East.

Return to Grazalema the way that you came, or alternatively follow the signs to El Bosque on the A373 and then Grazalema on the A372.

Tour 2:  

Grazalema – Zahara de la Sierra – Olvera – Torre Alháquime – Setenil – Grazalema. Approx. 70kms.

Leave Grazalema in the direction of El Bosque/Arcos on the A372 and in 4kms turn right onto the CA531 to Zahara. At the Puerto de las Palomas, 1354m, there is a car park and the views are worth stopping for.  The road then snakes its way downhill.  At the car park of ´Garganta Verde´ it is worth another stop for the view, but do not enter without a permit.  Just before you reach Zahara you will find La Almarzar El Vinculo.  The mill dates from the 17^th century and is the oldest in the province.

Zahara de la Sierra.  This picture-postcard village overlooking the lake and dominated by its castle is a must in any tour.  The village is centred around a pretty little square where you will find the information centre, bars and hotel.

The climb up to the castle tower is steep.  The tower is Christian and dates from after 1407 when Zahara was taken from Al-Andalus.  Other remains of walls date from the 8^th and 9^th centuries.  The view from the top is spectacular.  If climbing the tower you should go slowly as there is no lighting inside, the steps are uneven in places and one step is missing.  Going up tends to be easy enough, but coming down it seems darker and you descend by touch in some parts due to the lack of light. Be careful!

In the village the little streets are charming and worth meandering through.  Of the grander buildings the ‘Torre del Reloj’ is from the C16^th and the Santa Maria church is C17^th.

Leave Zahara and head towards Algodonales.  Before entering the village, which I think is not one of the prettiest, you meet the by-pass.  Take this road, A382/A376 towards Olvera/Ronda.  The roads split at the tunnel, you continue to Olvera, through the tunnel on the A382.

Olvera.  There is evidence that Olvera was first settled in the 3^rd century B.C, but none that this continued through to the Roman or Vandal periods.  Its ‘modern’ existence began in the 8^th century with the arrival of the Arabs and Berbers and was an obvious strategic situation.  The Arab town thrived for 700 years until conquered in 1327 and the castle you see is from after this period.  Olvera was close to the border between Castilla and Al-Andalus for 150 years until the fall of the Caliphate of Granada.  The oldest churches date from the C18^th.

Leave the town on the CA422 to Torre Alháquime, which is only a short distance.

Torre Alháquime.  The remains of the castle with its two small towers and defences are from the C8^th.  It was an Arab town until 1407 and for the 80 years after the loss of Olvera, which is close-by.  There must have been an uneasy feeling amongst the inhabitants about when the intolerant Catholics arrive here.  As with much of the Sierra ‘bandoleros’ were numerous who are now admired and remembered.  It’s easy to romantize now, but the bandoleros were what we call highway robbers.  The church of ‘Nuestra Señora de la Antigua’ is from the early C18^th and is neo-classical in style, though the façade is Baroque.  The nave roof is of carved wood.

Setenil is 10kms south of Torre Alháquime on the CA422.

Setenil de los Bodegas.  This village is a lovely contrast to many of the towns in the Sierra as it has a river which has water all year round and that much of the settlement is down in a gorge and not only on a hilltop.  In the height of summer Setenil offers a cooler refuge under the shade of the overhanging sandstone cliffs.  Many of the houses in the gorge are built into the rock and on one side of the river you will not only see the buildings on one side of the road under the overhang, but also the road and buildings on the other side, such is the overhang.  In 2002 a ‘lump’ of some 40 tonnes fell off, fortunately only destroying a garage and nothing more.

Setenil has been settled since the C4^th BC and became a Spanish possession shortly before the fall of the Caliphate of Granada at the end of the C15^th.  The fort at the top of the village is from the C7^th.  Of the grandest buildings the church of ‘La Señora de la Encarnación’ is C16^th.  The hermitage of San Sebastián is also C16^th, as is the Town Hall, though the latter shows some work from an earlier building from the Al-Andalus period.  In common with much of the Sierra there was great resistance to the French occupation in the C19^th.

To return to Grazalema leave Setenil on a minor road towards El Gastor and Montecorto.  At Los Villalones follow the signs to Montecorto (leaving the El Gastor road).  At Montecorto continue through the village until you arrive down at the Ronda road (A376), turn towards Algodonales for just over 1km until you see the sign for Zahara at a modern bridge. Follow this new road until Grazalema is sign posted.  You will follow the valley of La Ribera up to the pass and home.  At the bottom of this valley is the site of Alexi, the Iberian settlement and Lacibula the Roman town. Unfortunately there is no public access.

 Tour 3:          

 Grazalema – Acinipo – Ronda – Grazalema.  Approx. 60kms.

Leave on the A372 towards Ronda and travel on ‘the mountain road’ as it is known locally, through the cork oak forest.  The cork that has had its bark removed recently is a dark chestnut, which fades to grey over the years.  On arrival at the A376 continue towards Ronda for about 7kms down through the gorge until you see a road on the left for Setenil and Ronda la Vieja.  Continue on this minor road for 10kms until you see the signs for Ronda la Vieja – Acinipo.

Acinipo.  Perched on top of the mountain called ‘La Mesa’ (The Table), so called because from the west it appears to be a flat area, is the Roman town.  Although not a major city it was wealthy due to the agriculture of the area.  Most of the town is unrecognisable, but the theatre remains in an impressive condition.  Step through the main doorway onto the stage.  Towering above you nearly 5 metres high you will feel dwarfed by its façade.  No carvings or statues remain but it is not hard to imagine what it must have been like in its heyday more than 1700 years ago.  In the morning light this building can be seen glowing golden from as far away as Ronda.  In front of the large stage is the seating.  It has survived so well because the theatre was not so much ‘built’ as carved out of the natural rock on the slope on which it stands.  There would have been room to seat several thousand people, reflecting the population of the town and the surrounding countryside. [Open: 09:00-16:30, closed Mondays.                    Tel: 630 429949]       

Return the way in which you came until you reach the A376 again and turn left to Ronda.  The main road snakes its way up the hill and you need to enter Ronda at the first exit sign-posted.

Ronda.  Much has been said and written about Ronda and the publicity machine has maybe worked too well.  There is indeed much to see, but anyone visiting Ronda and expecting a quaint mediaeval hill top town will possibly be disappointed.  During the day (virtually all year round) hoards of day-trippers from the coast arrive and race for the same few sites (bullring, bridge, gorge viewpoint, a quick whiz around the old town and then hit the shops and bars).  If you want old and unspoilt go to Arcos, but this description will give you a few ideas in addition to the aforementioned hotspots which will allow you to enjoy and marvel without 20 bus-loads at your side all day.  My suggestion is:-  start at the Plaza de España outside the Parador and cross the road into Calle Rosario, head down the narrow road and turn right into a cobbled street and right again and walk down through the gardens.  From here you have a good view of the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) C18^th and the gorge (nearly 100m deep).  Exit the gardens at the bottom of the hill and cross the Puente Viejo (Old Bridge) C17^th and look down to the Arab Bridge.  Anyone wanting to cross from the fortified part of the town to the other first had to come down to this point and then head up again afterwards until the new bridge was built.  Go down the steps to the Arab baths, which are considered to be the best preserved in Spain.  They are from the C13^th. [open: 10:00-18:00 Mon-Fri & 10:00-15:00 S/Su&Hols. Tel: 952 870818]                                                            

Return up the steps until you reach the new steps on the left and go up these at the side of the cliff.  Here you will see the rock is conglomerate (Nature’s concrete).  Pass through the gateway and head uphill along the walls of the town’s inner defences.  Most of  this is Arab defence work, but with later Spanish additions.  Continue to the end of the lane, turn left down the main road and left down the steps to the church Espíritu Santo from the early C16^th and walk along the charming little lane of the same name to the main gateway.  The C13^th Almocabar gate is the original entry to the Arab fortified town and the larger Carlos V gateway is C16^th.  The square outside the town walls is a good place for a break before heading uphill!

Follow the main road into the old town until you see steps on the left.  Go up these to the Cathedral in the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent.  Part of this building is from the C13^th main mosque, but there is little of it on view inside.  As you look at the building the part to the left is what remains of the mosque.  From here (to your left) enter Calle Manuel Montero at the end of the square and go to the Palacio de Mondragón.  [open: 10:00-19:00 Mon-Fri & 10:00-15:00 S/Su&Hols.  Tel: 952 878450].  It dates from the early C14^th.  It is an intimate little building with seductive courtyards, tranquil gardens and beautiful ceramics, wood and stone carvings.

Turn left from Mondragón and continue left to the Plaza del Campillo (from here there is a walk down the steps to the gorge as far as the Arab Arch, down in the valley.  I think it is well worth it, but it’s hot work coming back up afterwards – be warned!) turn right into Sor Angela de la Cruz to the Plaza del Gigante.  Walk towards the Cathedral, then left behind it, then left again.

Follow the main road to the left to the bridge, which has also served as a prison in its lower level rooms, turn left to walk along the gorge which has a great view of the Sierra del Pinar (behind Grazalema) to the bullring which is C18^th.

Return to Grazalema on the Sevilla road A376 for 16 kms and the junction of the A372 is on the left as you reach the ‘Puerto de Montecorto’.

Tour 4:

Grazalema – Benamahoma – Arcos de la Frontera – Carissa Aurelia  – Grazalema. Approx. 130 kms.

Leave Grazalema on the A372 in the direction of El Bosque.  The road climbs rapidly above the village and affords a great view of the rooftops of the village.  A stop at Puerta del Boyer, 4 kms from Grazalema at 1103 metres is a must.  From here there is a good view of the ‘Salto del Cabrero’ (see Around Grazalema section) and the Sierra del Pinar topped by El Torreón.  Continue and gradually descend until you reach the village of Benamahoma.

Benamahoma.  [Son of Mohammed]  This small village is currently part of Grazalema, but residents are seeking a boundary change in order to become ‘independent’.  The first thing you will notice upon arrival in Benamahoma is that it is both warmer and greener than Grazalema.  The streets are lined with oranges that are in flower most of the year.  The valley is filled with trees as the river flows all year round, fed from underground at the far side of the village.  Visit the source of the water, crystal clear and refreshingly cool as it leaves the mountain at various locations at 100 litres a second.  This water was once used as the power source for turbines to generate electricity for the village.  In the old mill there is a small museum dedicated to the age of hydropower.

The first week of August sees the ‘Moors and Christians’ festival; a celebration of the Christian Spanish final victory over the Islamic Moors.  You can watch them fight it out in the streets, though the victor is never a surprise.  There is also a museum.

Leave Benamahoma and continue down the mountain to El Bosque.  Pass through the village in the direction of Arcos and Jerez on a wide, fast road, A372.  You will see Arcos perched high up on a cliff above the river Guadalete (which begins at Grazalema) as you approach.

Arcos de la Frontera.  Situated on a cliff nearly 100 metres above the river that bends around it.  The area was settled by the Iberio-Romans and Vandals, but the town grew with the arrival of the Arabs and was named Ar – Kosch.  The town is still dominated by its Arab fortress, which is now a private residence for the Duke of Arcos and has been altered on several occasions.  Unfortunately it is not open to public view.

The town fell into the hands of the invading Spanish in the second half of the C13^th, more than 200 years earlier than the fall of the Kingdom of Granada and remained a frontier town for those two centuries.  The mountains of the Sierra of Grazalema remained in Arab control.  In 1810 the town was occupied by Napoleon’s troops for 2 years, as was most of Spain.

Arcos is an architectural delight.  The ‘high town’ on the cliff is a labyrinth of little lanes of beautiful decaying buildings.  The few buildings that have received repairs have been treated with care – so unlike most Spanish towns, especially tourist ‘hotspots’ such as Ronda, (or even Grazalema where the attitude is to tear down an old building and replace it with a new one that is white, has window bars and a tiled roof, but is so obviously modern).

There are several fine churches and notable buildings including: The Basilica of Santa Maria C13^th, the church of San Pedro C14^th; both built on top of earlier Al-Andalus buildings, the church of San Agustin C16^th and San Miguel C14^th.

A visitor should wander through the streets, taking a look into the courtyards of the larger houses of which there are many.  Many street corners have Roman and Arab columns built into the later buildings and look out for Roman tombstones reused as building blocks.

From the main square the view from the cliff edge is breath taking (be prepared for the strong updraft of air in the afternoon).  Far below is the Guadalete and soaring on the up-current of air you will see various birds of prey.

Take time to wander down the hill to the lower town, passing through the Roman and Arab defensive walls.  The lower town is much later, mainly from the C18^th & C19^th, and many from an obvious period of prosperity.   From here it is also possible to take a walk along the river, passing an old watermill and the reed beds where white storks and herons feed.  If you don’t fancy the hike up the hill afterwards a bus service operates to the main shopping area.

Leave Arcos on the A382 towards Villamartín and Antequera.  At Bornos there is a junction for Espera and Puerto Llano.  Follow the signs for Puerto Llano and Carissa Aurelia, which is about 4 kms along the road.

Carissa Aurelia.  A small but important Roman city dating from the first century B.C., and spanning five centuries until the end of the Western Roman Empire.  It was founded on the site of an earlier Iberian town in an area of light soil making agriculture easy.  The town flourished until the arrival of the Vandals, who all but abandoned the location and when the Arabs arrived they favoured the hilltop village of Espera only a few kilometres away.  The remains on view are parts of the city walls, many domestic and public buildings and the necropolis.  [Open: 10:00-15:00 Monday to Friday.      Tel: 956 718006.]                                                           

Continue towards Puerto Llano and on arriving at the A371 turn right towards Villamartín, then left on the A382 still towards Villamartín.  On the by-pass you leave on the A373 towards El Bosque and Ubrique.  At El Bosque leave the main road, pass through the village on the A372 to Grazalema.

  

Walk 1:  Endrinal Walk  5 kilometres (circular)

Easy/Medium:  A walk that contrasts sharply from open mountainside to pine woods that offers an easy middle section. During nesting watch out for tawny owls who are active in this twilight woodland world. There is a steep section near the start of this walk and a shorter steep downhill near the end.

Take the road to the left of the Unicaja Bank, 'Calle Las Piedras' and continue to the top of the village. Upon reaching the main road turn left for a short distance until you reach the end of the campsite fence. The path begins to the left of this fence. You will find an information sign in Spanish.  Proceeding from here uphill on a generally gentle gradient for about 500 metres.

Before you begin the steep climb you will meet other paths. Ignore these and continue roughly straight ahead. When on the steep section the path is clear for most of the way, but at one point it is possible to miss a left turn. (There is a yellow arrow, but if you do go the wrong way you will know as the path you have taken suddenly stops. Turn around and return about 10 metres, now on your right you will see a smaller path climbing above you.)  At the top of this climb you reach a gradual downhill slope at the beginning of the wooded section. Ignoring all smaller side paths continue ahead until you reach a crossroads. This is an intersection for 4 walks as you will see from the arrows. Here you need to turn right and continue on a mainly level path until you again reach open mountain.

There is now a slight climb until you reach a larger path near the base of Peñon Grande. Below you to your left is a large depression which is characteristic of this area in the Sierra de Grazalema. At the main path turn right and very soon you begin a steep descent. This will bring you to the car park above the village on the other side of the campsite. Turn right at the car park and then take the first left off the main road, continue straight ahead and you return to the Plaza de España.

Walk 2:  Ibex Alley  6 kilometres (circular)

Difficult:  An excellent early morning/late evening walk, on which it is easy to have close encounters with deer and ibex. A very long climb up at the start, but it is well worth it. In places the path comes fairly close to a cliff edge near to the top of the climb, so not recommended if heights worry you.  There is a very short section where you will need to use your hands to ascend.  Spectacular views and not heavily walked.

Follow the main road to the right of the church and past both car parks. About 20 metres past the upper car park is a set of steps on the left side of the road. Follow this path to the top until you reach 'La Ermita de El Calvario'. At this redundant building there is a large outcrop of rock and to the side of that the path climbs on the left and up before running parallel to the ruins. The path climbs gently for some 30 metres towards a gap in the dry stone wall. Once passing through the gap continue straight ahead for 15 metres and then turn left.  From here the path becomes clearer and much of it is lined by stones. Continue in the same general direction uphill for over a kilometre. As the path levels off you will cross a large area of bare rock and this is where the path comes fairly close to the steep drop.  Go straight across and at the far side the path drops a few metres before entering the trees. Shortly after you will reach a short steep section where you will need to use your hands. From here it is easy and pleasant walking and you will reach the top of the ridge which affords fine views both east and west, this is mid-point. Turn right and keep near to the top of the ridge until you see the marker to drop towards the western side. Upon reaching an area of open grass you need to continue straight ahead. (In Spring this is obvious, but in Autumn the path becomes obscure) The path continues in the same style for about a kilometre when you will see a natural stone arch on the right of the path. (It is possible to visit this, but continue on this path for about 200 metres and then double back to it when you see the double-headed arrows on the bare rock). The descent from this walk is steep with a lot of loose stones, but fairly clear to follow. Once down, upon reaching a larger path turn right for a few metres and then turn left onto the next path. Continue through the trees, climbing a little, until reaching a much larger track and then turn right. This will bring you to the car park above the village. Turn right at the car park and then left off the main road, continue straight ahead and you return to the Plaza de España.

Walk 3: Thyme Trail  10 kilometres (circular)

Easy/Medium:  This route affords fine views within the park, rather than beyond it. Red deer are numerous and early morning in early Autumn is good to see them. Herbs are abundant on this path, especially Thymus sp. which  gives the walk a rather nice scent.

Take the road to the left of the Unicaja Bank, 'Calle Las Piedras' and continue to the top of the village. Upon reaching the main road turn to the right by the campsite. The path begins towards the far side of the camping fence on the left hand side of the road. You immediately begin to climb and pass through a gate.  The path gradually becomes steeper. Ignore side turnings until you have reached a level area after a steep climb, some 1500 metres from the car park which affords views down onto a depression about the size of a football field and high peaks beyond. Do not descend into this depression, (see walks 4, 5 or 7 if you want to walk this way) but take the turning to your left which cuts across the side of the hill. This next section enters the wooded area and offers easier walking. You will find it cooler and less bright in the trees and may need to look more carefully for the birds in the area. After almost a kilometre you will reach a crossroads where you need to turn right.

This is the start of the lineal section of the walk which is fairly easy, though it will start with a gentle downward slope, it will change to a reasonable uphill. This is the best area for seeing red deer so keep quiet and stop to look. Continue for over 1km.  Upon reaching a semi circle of stones with an expanse of bare rock behind this is as far as this walk takes you. (You will find a yellow double-headed arrow with a bar above it). 

There are routes beyond here, but they quickly disappear.  I do not recommend continuing due to numerous sink holes in the area.

Return to the crossroads continue straight across, climbing slowly within the wood until you reach a clearing at the top of a steep downhill section. The path is clearly visible all the way down and once you reach level ground you need to take the next path on the left and re-enter the trees. Continue through the trees until reaching a much larger track and turn right. This will bring you back to the same car park above the village after passing through the gate. Turn right at the car park and then left off the main road, continue straight ahead and you return to the Plaza de España.

Walk 4:  Orchid Avenue  7 kilometres (circular)

Medium/Difficult:  A walk that will take you up to almost 1300m and offer views along the Sierra del Pinar and the peaks to the south west. Although orchids are not as numerous on this route I have seen 7 different species here as well as an abundance of other flowers. The best time for flowers is February until June and October to November.

Take the road to the left of the Unicaja Bank, 'Calle Las Piedras' and continue to the top of the village. Upon reaching the main road turn to the right by the campsite. The path begins towards the far side of the camping fence on the left hand side of the road. You immediately begin to climb and pass through a gate.  The path gradually becomes steeper. Ignore side turnings until you have reached a level area after a steep climb, about 1 km from the car park which affords views down onto a depression about the size of a football field of grass with a stand of pine trees. You will descend to this area. As you come close to the dry stone wall you need to turn right and proceed along this length of wall.  From the next corner turn left and the path slowly drifts away from the wall and begins to climb, past water troughs and a large deep circular well. As the path climbs higher into the pass the track becomes more substantial with stone edging. Pass through another metal gate and continue up the valley. At the top of the long climb, as the path levels off. After leaving the scrub and crossing grass the path as it veers to the right and continues on the grass. There are stones which mark this. You will join a major path on the saddle between the valleys, continue to the right at this junction. You will find a frenzy of faded blue arrows on this section.  Walk against the direction indicated by the blue arrows. About 1 kilometre onward there is a short steep drop where you cross a stream. At the bottom you cross a larger stream. There are some stepping stones, but the water is rarely deep and by mid-May it is usually dry. Pass through the gate (or climb the style) and you find an extremely ugly concrete picnic site (and a good viewpoint just along the road if you want a short detour). There is a wide walking track on the right which avoids using the tarmac road. Follow this until its end at the road bridge over the river.  Upon reaching the road you need to continue straight ahead for a short distance along the road verge. After the car park turn left off the main road, continue straight ahead and down the hill to return to the Plaza de España.

Walk 5:  Simancon Summit  8 kilometres (linear)

Difficult: Simancon, on fine days affords views of the Sierra Nevada and the Rif Mountains, Morocco.  The top is steep and exposed to the elements.

Take the road to the left of the Unicaja Bank, 'Calle Las Piedras' and continue to the top of the village. Upon reaching the main road turn to the right by the campsite. The path begins towards the far side of the camping fence on the left hand side of the road. You immediately begin to climb and pass through a gate.  The path gradually becomes steeper. Ignore side turnings until you have reached a level area after a steep climb, about 1 km from the car park which affords views down onto a depression about the size of a football field of grass with a stand of pine trees. You will descend to this area. As you come close to the dry stone wall you need to keep to the left, then pass through the gap in the wall, turn left and walk on the inside. Ahead there is another gap and you now walk on the outside again, turning first right, then left around the outcrop of rock and left again leaving the flat area behind you.  There now follows a climb of around 400 metres in height and about 2 kms through open pine forest.  The path is clear until you reach level ground at the top. Almost immediately you reach this level area the path disappears. Now you need to look for the yellow arrows and stone markers which are roughly between 10 and 30 metres apart until you reach the summit. Where you are unable to see the next arrow just continue in the direction the previous arrow indicated and keep looking.  You will see the next as you come closer. As you cannot see all the arrows from a distance you may like to add to the stone markers as you go. It will not only assist the next walker passing this way, but also assist you on your return! The final climb which deviates to the left to ascend the summit is over bare rock, but the arrows are easier to see as you go up.  They are less easy to see coming down, hence the stone markers.  Where you fail to see an arrow coming down look about for the most obvious route - short lines of stones, small piles of stones.  As you near you will again see the arrows.  Once back to level ground turn to the right between the two peaks to regain the path.  Your return route is exactly the same as your outward, but when you reach the car park you may wish to return to La Plaza de España by keeping to the road instead of taking the first turning on the left into the village. This is a slightly longer route (about an extra ½ km) but offers a different view down onto the village.

Walk 6: Sculpture Street 12 kilometres (linear/circular)

Easy/Difficult:  My favourite walk with rocky mountainside and open areas dotted with trees with large numbers of songbirds and the wonderful peony (Apr/May).  Good chances of seeing birds of prey. The difficult part is on the circular walk.

Follow the instruction given in Walk 1 until you reach the crossroads mentioned and then return to this description.  At the crossroads turn left and continue through a section of scrubby bush before returning to larger trees. After some 500 metres a smaller path merges from the left (note this path as you can use it on your return bypassing the crossroads and re-emerging closer to the top of the steep hill). The path climbs steadily and you will find a huge piece of fallen rock blocking your way. Pass around it and continue up through the pines and shortly you will emerge into more open country with easier walking as it levels off for over a kilometre. Farther on you come alongside the large rocky expanse of El Reloj to your right and now the path begins to climb for a while. (Watch out for griffon vultures, Bonelli's eagle, buzzards, sparrowhawks and peregrins in this area.) Once you begin to descend you will reach a stone wall and wire gate. Pass through and soon you reach a second gate with a well-maintained path beyond. Continue on this path until you reach a stone enclosure on the right the size of a small house, but only 1m high. On the left is your path descending slightly and entering the trees. This is the start of a 4 kilometre loop which will bring you back to this point ready to return to Grazalema.  More than half of this loop has stones which have been sculptured by wind and rain for many years.  Many of which have been raised to act as markers.  The path is on the whole excellent, fairly wide and stone edged.  You will pass through 2 gates on a section where the path is a little rougher and then descend a little. When you reach a small flat area of grass after the short descent you need the right hand path. There follows a steep uphill section and at the top the path has been cut into the rock. In front of you is the massive of El Reloj once again.  A short downhill and uphill again and you reach another junction. Again turn right and continue down about 700 metres to another junction with a standing stone in the centre. Again turn to the right. When you reach the bottom of the hill you will soon be at the stone enclosure. Your return is by retracing your outward route, turning right at the crossroads, or by taking the aforementioned by-pass and then continuing straight ahead ignoring all other side routes on the way.

Walk 7: Lizard Lane  12 kilometres (linear)

Difficult:  The same length as Walk 8, but allow 1 hour extra for this.  It is more demanding. If you want to return on foot Walk 8 is also written in reverse.  I do not recommend Walk 7 in reverse; it´s more difficult; and the views are best walking towards Benaocaz. The return bus departs at 15:40.

Follow the directions in Walk 4 until you reach the blue arrows mentioned at the top of the long uphill section. On arrival turn left and follow the path for over 1 km, passing through a gate and a gap in the wall after twice descending and then ascending again. In the distance, slightly to the left is a redundant building. Your path is clear on the left as it takes a gradual downhill route along the mountainside for the next 2 kms to reach the ruin. Continue past the house until you reach a 3-sectioned stone water trough. At this point turn right around the stone outcrop (away from the most obvious path) and follow the yellow arrows (marked for 3 kilometres) down the hill. Upon reaching the valley cross the river, turn left and follow its general direction. At the end is a flat grassy area and a stone wall. In the right corner is a gate.  Go through the gate and down a few metres.

From here the path is again clear, but a little rocky. You then reach another small river to cross and then come to a barren stony area. Here you head downhill for about 500 metres (watch for arrows, but the route is generally straight ahead). Your path is to be found on the left entering bush and gorse. Re-emerging to an open area and another small river, which you cross and continue towards the large peak in front of you, though a little to the right. The path edges around this peak on a gentle gradient and when you see a gorge in front it begins to head down to the left to the river and a gate. After the gate turn right and climb the short outcrop of rock. Your path is now in a more or less straight line over grass and gorse.  There are arrows in this area and then you reach a clear wide path.  Again continue in roughly the same direction. You pass through an iron gate and the path becomes car width just before the village.

Continue straight ahead for the bars and supermarket. Note the telephone box and hotel San Anton. For those returning on Walk 8 when you return from the village centre take the road to the left (when leaving) of the hotel. For those returning by bus follow the tarmac road to down to the bypass and wait at the junction. The bus leaves at 15:40 from the bus stop on the main road and will pull off the road to pick you up. The journey is about 30 minutes.

Walk 8:  Salto del Cabrero  12 kilometres (linear)

Medium: The easier of 2 routes to Benaocaz, with a mainly gentle gradient. It offers fine views to the west. There is a bus to Grazalema (15:40). The most walked route in the park. Depart early to avoid other people.

Leave the Plaza de España via Calle Las Piedras to the left of the Unicaja Bank. Continue to the top of the village and turn right and continue on the main road. After a short distance a wide footpath can be found to the left of the road bridge. Continue to the end of this path until you reach the ugly concrete picnic site (4 kms). Ahead is a farm track and gate. To the side of the vehicular gate is another gate for walkers. Pass through and continue along this track until you reach the goat farm. As you approach the farm your path leaves to the left and through a fenced area and then along a stone wall, but is virtually straight ahead. There are green arrows for a few kilometres. Continue through the oak woods on an undulating path that follows the ridge to the left.  You will pass through another gate and continue along the obvious path. The path is clearly marked by stones and arrows and the occasional wooden sign. You will enter scrub and trees and go down a short hill before reaching a large gate, pass through and head down a short stony section and then a quite easy wooded section for about 1 km to another gate. You will find for much of the next section there are several paths, use the most obvious, but all paths meet up at various points along the way. Continue following the green arrows and eventually you reach another gate where these arrows stop. The path is pretty obvious, but there are yellow arrows, AMA signs and signposts. The path follows alongside the wall and then bears to the right and descends a little for a few hundred metres. You now reach a flat grassed area circled by low peaks. There is a diversion, lots of paint and short ladder to descend then keep to the left across the flat area until you re-find the path at the far side of the triangular field. The next 1 km is gentle walking, though a little uphill. You pass an disused lime kiln and enter a rocky area until you reach a gate at the top of a steep downhill with many paths. Part of the way down is on a fairly good stone path and looking down you will see your route ahead. At the bottom follow the fence/wall and pass through the gate. The stone path will bring you to a river with a small bridge. Continue to the next gate and follow the track ahead, past chicken pens until you enter the village.  Continue straight for the bars and shops. The bus stop is at the shelter below on the main road.

Walk 8: Salto del Cabrero  12 kilometres (in reverse)

Medium:  This is fairly easy walking. Where the path is vague you will find yellow arrows (in both directions) on the first half of the walk. The second half you will walk against the direction of the green arrows. You gain a fine view of the Sierra del Pinar on this route.  There are daily buses at 13:15 and 19:00 from Grazalema to Benaocaz.

Leave Benaocaz by the road to the left of hotel San Anton, passing new buildings, then the shanty 'village' of chicken pens. You come to a gate dated 1978, continue ahead to the river and cross the small bridge then follow the stone path uphill, through a second gate and keep along the wall/fence until you reach an uphill climb with many possible paths.  You need to arrive at the top of this area at the lowest point in the peaks above.  The path changes daily due to the huge number of goats knocking stones and soil about.  Towards the top the stone path restarts and shortly after there is a gate. The path continues through an area of rocks ahead and then right and in a few hundred metres to a disused lime kiln. Continue ahead for nearly 1 km until you reach a flat grassed area. Keep to the right and cross to rejoin the path at the far side. For a hundred metres or so you climb a rock path through scrub and enter an area with a lot of old walls, where the path becomes clearer and close to a wall and continues along it to a gate. Here you meet the green arrows, heading against their direction continue down.

There is more than one path on much of what lays ahead. Keep to the most used, but all paths meet at various points along the way. Passing another gate you enter a wooded area for more than 1 kilometre then head up a short, but stony section. At the next gate turn right and go uphill then follow the path to the left.  The path undulates, but stays at roughly the same level overall and in mainly the same direction, crossing a large open area of grass with occasional trees via a path on a stone wall.

At the far end of this section is a goat farm. Go through another gate through the pen and continue up to the vehicular track. Follow the track to its end, passing two more gates until you reach the ugly concrete picnic shelter and tarmac road at La Puerta del Boyer. Straight across in the parking area is a wide footpath which avoids walking along the road. Follow it to its end at the road bridge and walk along the main road for a short distance before taking the first road on the left into Grazalema. Continue straight ahead until you reach the Plaza de España.

A Brief History of Grazalema

The village of Grazalema has probably been continuously populated for over 2000 years.  Possibly founded by the Romans as a small settlement, 8 kilometres from Lacibula (a Roman village founded on an Iberio-Celtic village.) and sited roughly halfway between Acinipo and Ocurris (Roman towns at Old Ronda and Ubrique.) in a strategic position on a ridge near a pass at 830 metres above sea level.  Although not an important place, neither situated on a major artery of communication, it serviced the needs of merchants and traders en-route between these larger towns.  There might have been an inn, a market and most probably there would have been a temple and later, when Christianity was adopted, a church.  There is no record of a bathhouse.  The area was largely agricultural, serving the needs of the local populace.

For the most part, Iberio-Romano life continued unchanged and untroubled for nearly 500 years (and for some time after the fall of Rome) before the  invading tribes arrived from what are now modern Germany and Poland.  One of these tribes, the Vandals, (related to the Angles and Saxons who settled in Britain) settled here from 415 to 714.  They named their new country Vandalusia and left no trace of their presence in Grazalema, though certainly they settled here.  (A visit to Jerez Archaeological Museum will offer an insight to the Vandals in Andalusia).

Grazalema underwent various name changes in the years after the Arabs and Berbers arrived from 714, (large numbers of Vandals having since crossed into Africa).  In Berber, Grazalema was named Madinat-Ibn-As-Salim and Vandalusia became Al-Andalus.  The village continued to enjoy moderate wealth due to farming and the wool trade.  Houses and mosques were built.

In 1485 the Christian Spanish invaded, expelling or killing Jews and Muslims refusing to convert to Christianity.  In 2002 there was a celebration of the ‘repopulation of the local villages’ a euphanism for ethnic cleansing.  Many of the local people living here today descend of people originating from the plains of northern Spain.  Despite the change of landlord and the destruction, or reconstruction of everything in the village, Grazalema continued to prosper.  Many fine examples of rich merchant houses can be seen from the 18^th to the early 20^th century when the village boundaries contained over 9000 inhabitants (now 2000).

Until the mid 1980s few foreign visitors found their way to Grazalema.  Tourism consisted of summer holidaymakers from the cities of Seville, Jerez and Cadiz.  Since 1990 there has been a rapid boom in tourism in the village (both national and overseas visitors) and high season is all but a few weeks before Christmas, after Epiphany and June. Tourism peaked in 2004 and has since declined when the economies of Britain, Germany and The Netherlands slowed.  Also the introduction of the Euro has had an effect, both for exchange rates and price rises.

The popularity of Grazalema is not only due to it being one of the prettiest white villages of Andalusia, but also because it is situated in the heart of the ‘Natural Park of Grazalema’.  This area was the first ‘Reserve of the Biosphere’ to be declared in Andalusia, in 1977.  It is famed as the wettest place in Spain, receiving annually some 2,350 mm every year. (That is more than 4 years rainfall on The Fens of East Anglia).  Most winters see a little snow, though it quickly melts and summers are relatively cool compared to the norm for Andalusia.

Grazalema Village Trail

From the fountains in La Plaza de España begin your tour by entering Calle Las Piedras to the left of Unicaja Bank.  This is one of the two best-preserved streets of the village and many of the oldest buildings are, at least in part, from the early 18^th to mid 19^th century.  As you walk up the hill you will notice impressive cut stone surrounds on some doors.  These houses belonged to wealthy merchants who were clearly showing off their fortunes by adding a costly and imposing entrance to their houses.  Less wealthy people would use bricks (as you will see later) or uncut stone and mortar which was then painted over as is sometimes the case with modern houses in the village.

The studs on the doors are an Arabic decorative style.  These originated in India and were copied in the Arab world.  In Arabia, East Africa and India these studs were large, vicious, cast iron points to defend against the doors being rammed and in rural areas protection from large animals as much as from people.  The main entrance of hostal ‘Casa de las Piedras’ is a fine example of the change from their former defensive use to purely decoration.

The windows are small and help reduce heat build up inside the houses in the summer.  Glass was once a costly material and a small window also reduced this expense.  The design is clearly from Arab lands where excessive heat is even more of a problem.  The Arabs brought this style of house building with them and it has continued in Spain until the present day.  The older houses have solid stone walls of 30 – 40 cms thick, sometimes even to 100cms and also protect against both heat and cold.  These houses are generally over 200 years old.

All windows are encased with iron bars.  You will notice various styles, but the traditional and oldest have the vertical iron passing through a hole within the horizontals.  The irons (rejas in Spanish) allowed windows to be left open without bandits and thieves entering and to 'protect' women's virtues.  Today the lower bars are also used to haul oneself out of the way of bulls during the fiestas.

When you reach the fountain at Calle Fuentezuela turn right and then right again.  At the bottom of a short steep slope head down the hill to the second road on the left.  Here we find more fine houses.  Where doors are left open you will notice many have colourful geometric ceramic tiles on the floor and walls.  This is another introduction from the Arabs that has continued over the years.

Turning left into Calle Empedrada and heading down the hill you will notice a large irregular rock.  Many houses in the village are built directly on the natural rock and inside the house the walls are often the same.  On the left, just past the bakery is a house with a carved column for a doorstep.  It is unknown if this is from Lacibula, Acinipo or local, but would once have been part of a temple.  Continue down the steps and through the tunnel.  At the junction to your right is another part of a column.  It is clearly a different stone and it isn’t known if it is Roman or Arab, but certainly from another fine building of the past.  Just up the hill are the Music School, Radio Station and Theatre, but at the tunnel you turn left, down the hill, into Calle de Arriba.  Here you will find a house with a brick entrance as mentioned earlier, this one also with external wall paintings.

At Calle de los Angeles turn left and straight-ahead on the bend is a set of steps leading down to the lower part of the village.  Go down these steps, turn left.  Ahead on the left is the Roman Fountain.  Of the 8 fountainheads the four on the right are the clearest.  There is a stylized lion, two merchants and a figure of a wealthy man, with what appears to be lion's ears.  (The Iberian lion was important in Celto-Iberian and Roman times and this would have been found throughout Andalusia).

Opposite is the public laundry that was still in use in the 1970s.  If you’ve brought some dirty washing you can take advantage of an excellent photo opportunity.  You are welcome to enter and take a closer look and imagine how much gossip went on with 16 women scrubbing away!

Turn right out of the washhouse and continue to the tarmac road 10 metres away.  Turn left and follow this road up the gentle hill, gradually climbing higher than the haphazardly arranged roofs.  As you approach the glass and paper recycling point you will have a nice view of the valley below and the mediaeval entrance to the village (sadly it has been poorly reconstructed in the past few years).  Continue on Calle Puerta de la Villa to the top, passing the theatre (Casa de la Cultura) and rejoin the main road at the health centre (Centro de Salud).

Take the road opposite, to the right of Tano’s Disco Pub then turn right into Calle Empedrada.  At the end of the road turn left, once again passing the temple column door step, up the hill and turn left, down the hill into Calle Dr Mateos Gago once again.  Here are yet more examples of fine buildings, some in a poor state of repair.  Number 15 is of particular interest as some of its white plaster has been removed to reveal early painting.  Whilst this is Spanish, it owes its geometric design to the Arabic legacy and is probably another sign of wealth on display.

The little church of San Juan with its painted tower is of Arab origin.  Inside the tower (not open to visitors) is Arabic vaulting and the tower, though modified greatly was probably a mosque minaret of roughly the same height.  The rest of the mosque was destroyed.  Continue ahead, down the lane to re-emerge on the main road.  La Encarnación church is in front of you, part of which dates from the early part of the 17^th century.  You may visit when the doors are unlocked.

To the right of the church is the public car park and market place (every Tuesday, except the last each month, when it is located at the top of the village).  Walk to the far end of the car park to the viewpoint.  From here you have a good view of La Mesa, the flat topped mountain some 15 kms away and a little higher than Grazalema at 1000 metres.  The Roman city of Acinipo is sited there.  The ampitheatre is impressive, but the rest of the city has been destroyed.  There is no public transport to visit this site.

Cross the car park to Calle de los Asomaderos (to the left of the fir tree) stopping at the tree. This is an example of Abies pinsapo (Spanish Fir) which you may have noticed in the lower village.  Botanically an important species here as they are a remnant of the forest that existed before the last ice age and some 400 hectares of forest survive in the Sierra del Pinar. (You need a permit to enter – contact the Centro de Información Turística if you wish to visit). Continue into La Plaza de Andalucía with its palm tree at the centre.  Exit ahead to the left of the shop into Calle Agua, returning to La Plaza de España.  La Aurora Church at the end of the square is from the 18^th century, though parts of the side walls may be from an earlier Arab building.  Facing the church are the peaks of Peñon Grande and San Cristóbal (1525m) at the eastern edge of the Sierra del Pinar.

Grazalema Village Council would like to wish all our foreign visitors a very warm welcome to our beautiful little village on behalf of all its residents and if this is not your first visit to Grazalema we are very happy to receive you back amongst us once again.

We are sure that you will enjoy your stay in our village and also enjoy mixing with us mountain people – we are a friendly bunch, so don’t be afraid to talk to us.

This guide will offer you many ideas of how to pass your time here and we are proud to be able to offer you such a large and diverse range of activities to cater for every taste that will make you want to spend more than just a few days with us.  When you do leave, we trust that you enjoy the rest of your visit to Andalusia and hope that you will be able to return to visit us again in the very near future.

Many thanks to the museums of Cadiz and Jerez, The University of Cadiz and Zenith Tours Zanzibar.  Cover photograph courtesy of Andy Ford.

Copyright Ó E.R.G. Brewster  2001, 2002, 2003 & 2010.

Published by East Anglian Walking Guides – Andalucía